
THE DESERT'S ENDURING HEART:
A SENTIMENTAL HISTORY OF THE TOHONO O'ODHAM
In the vast, sun-scorched expanse of the Sonoran Desert, where the horizon shimmers like a mirage and the saguaro stand proud as silent sentinels, the Tohono O’odham people have lived for millennia. Their name, meaning "Desert People," is a quiet testament to their unbreakable bond with a land that is both harsh and tender, unforgiving yet generous. From the rolling dunes of southern Arizona to the rugged stretches of northern Sonora, Mexico, their story is one of love, endurance, and a profound sense of belonging—a tale that stirs the soul and echoes through time. Long before borders were drawn or nations claimed the earth, the Tohono O’odham roamed free across their ancestral homeland, a sweeping territory known as the PapaguerÃa. It stretched from the Gulf of California in the west to the San Pedro River in the east, from the Gila River in the north to the heart of Sonora in the south. Here, they were not just survivors but creators—masters of a desert that whispered secrets of life to those who listened. They danced with the seasons, planting corn, beans, and squash in the fleeting embrace of monsoon rains, gathering cholla buds and saguaro fruit under the watchful stars. Their hands wove baskets from willows, yucca and devil’s claw, each intricate pattern a thread of memory, a love letter to the land that sustained them. The Tohono O'odham used everything they made, and shared with others when they had more. They were very generous people. When the Spanish arrived in the late 17th century, led by missionaries like Father Eusebio Kino, they brought their crosses and promises of a new faith. The Tohono O’odham met them with curiosity, but with resilience, their spirit unbowed. They resisted domination, rising in rebellions during the 1660s and 1750s, fierce protectors of a way of life that pulsed with the rhythm of the hot desert. The mission of San Xavier del Bac, its white walls gleaming against the arid landscape, stands today as a symbol of that encounter—a place where cultures clashed and intertwined, and where Tohono O’odham voices still linger in the air, singing of a past unbroken, yet that will never come back. The 19th century brought a very deep wound to the Desert People. In 1853, the Gadsden Purchase sliced their homeland in two, a jagged line drawn by distant hands that knew nothing of the people it severed. Suddenly, families were split between Mexico and the United States, their ancient paths of pilgrimage and kinship blocked by an invisible wall. At first, the border was a whisper, easily crossed as it had been for centuries. Tohono O’odham moved freely to visit loved ones, to honor sacred sites, to weave the fabric of their community across the divide. But as time wore on, that whisper became a shout—immigration laws tightened, and the border hardened into a barrier, tearing at the heart of a people who had never known separation. In Arizona, the Tohono O’odham faced new pressures as American settlers arrived, claiming springs and lands that had once been theirs alone. The U.S. government carved out reservations—San Xavier in 1874, the vast Papago Reservation in 1916—spaces meant to confine yet also to protect. Life changed as wells were drilled and seasonal migrations gave way to permanent villages. Some turned to cattle ranching, others to wage labor, but always, they carried their traditions forward, a quiet rebellion against erasure. South of the border, in Mexico, their kin struggled too, their lands shrinking under the weight of neglect and encroachment, their numbers dwindling to a fragile few. Yet through every trial, the Tohono O’odham endured. Their language, a branch of Uto-Aztecan, flows like a stream through their communities, its cadence a lullaby of survival. Their stories—of the trickster I’itoi, of the creation of the world—bind generations together, a sacred thread that no border can snap. Basket-weaving, once a craft of necessity, became an art of defiance and beauty, each coil a prayer for the future. And in the 1980s, they reclaimed their name, casting off "Papago"—a label imposed by outsiders—for "Tohono O’odham," a declaration of identity that resonates with pride. Today, the Tohono O’odham Nation sprawls across 2.8 million acres in Arizona, a homeland vast as Connecticut, cradling over 34,000 enrolled members. In Sonora, a smaller but no less vital community persists, their lives entwined with those across the line. The border remains a scar, its militarization a daily reminder of loss—families divided, ceremonies disrupted. Yet the Desert People adapt, as they always have. They run casinos and colleges, preserve their language and foods, and stand firm against walls that threaten to fracture them further. Their health struggles—diabetes, a modern plague—echo the cost of change, but their spirit fights on, rooted in the land they’ve never ceased to love.


The O'odham are Very Kind, Spiritual People
When the Tohono O'odham wander off into the desert's washes, arroyos, river beds or mountain slopes in search of plants to weave their baskets, sand and clay to make their pots, or plants to eat and heal with, they always leave an offering to the land in sign of respect for its protection, existence, and generosity (Kathy Vance, potter, April 2025).

Vav Givulk [Baboquivari Peak] is the Tohono O'odham's sacred mountain
They believe that I'itoi, the creator, led the O'odham upwards into their land -a land stark and dry, yet beautiful- where, with patience, they came to understand the land and how to live on it. According to legend, I'itoi still lives in a cave, hidden by scrub forests and rocky cliffs, below the peak of Vav Givulk.

The "Virtual" Wall
The Tohono O'odham Nation shares approximately 75 miles of relatively undomesticated border with Mexico, one of the very few places where the boundary between the United States and Mexico is not yet completely walled off by a 30-foot tall railing. Their border, rather, is "virtual," -surveillance towers, sensors, drones, relentless patrol... Wildlife, Tohono O'odham's sacred sites and burial sites were deeply damaged by the construction of a road that allows federal law enforcement vehicles to drive along the international divide. Since March 2021, once a year, a group of O'odham people have been doing a week-long "Prayer Run" to forgive injustices, to purify their lands and souls, and to reunite their people.